The main differences between underfloor heating and radiators

With underfloor heating, temperature distribution is close to optimal—warmer at the feet, cooler at head level. The floor radiates heat across its entire surface, but its temperature cannot become too high. In rooms, it is not recommended to exceed 26°C for long periods, which indicates low power.

It's best to consider the use of underfloor heating in the design. The floor screed should be slightly thicker than standard (usually about 7 cm instead of 4-5 cm).

The insulation layer in the floor on the ground also needs to be thicker, as pipes with temperatures of approximately 40°C come into contact with it. This raises the floor level and reduces the ceiling height.

It is not possible to make changes to the existing underfloor heating.

Moving, adding, or changing a radiator isn't a big deal.

A radiator can easily be replaced in an existing home if it proves inefficient or doesn't suit the style.

Hydronic underfloor heating is the most common. These are simply pipes that carry water heated by a boiler or heat pump. They are typically embedded in a fairly thick (at least 6 cm) screed layer and supported by a layer of thermal insulation (usually polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). As a result, such underfloor heating is heavier, heats up slowly, and cools down slowly. Furthermore, its total thickness (insulation and screed) is several centimeters greater than that of unheated floors.

However, there are installation systems designed primarily for renovations, where the weight and thickness of underfloor heating are significantly reduced. These systems primarily use special thermal insulation boards with milled grooves for laying pipes. The top layer can be covered with a dry screed, i.e., fiber-gypsum or fiber-cement boards, possibly filled with a high-strength screed, the layer of which can be 1-2 cm thinner over the pipes. These solutions are obviously more expensive than standard ones, but allow for the installation of underfloor heating in areas that would otherwise be impossible.

An alternative to hydronic heating is electric heating.

They are often chosen for renovations or when underfloor heating is planned only in certain interiors (for example, bathrooms).

For electric heating, mats are popular; they can be laid after the screed, embedded in a layer of tile adhesive.

Everyone knows that wall radiators come in different types: slab, convection, finned, cast iron, aluminum, or steel, etc. However, not everyone understands that the difference lies not only in appearance, but also in their essential features and application possibilities.

A common argument in favor of underfloor heating is that the absence of radiators allows for greater freedom in room design. However, this is only partially true. In reality, there are no radiators, and underfloor heating, in turn, cannot be covered with thick carpets and floor coverings or obstructed by furniture without legs. These would simply impede effective heat exchange.

There is a solution! The flooring material we use must be approved by the manufacturer for use with underfloor heating, meaning it will not age prematurely under these conditions and will not emit harmful substances.

The selection of radiators is so vast that everyone will find something suitable. From classic, simple panel radiators, to ornate cast iron radiators in a retro style, to hidden floor radiators and convectors that can be concealed behind furniture or a bathtub..

Heated floors can be successfully powered from any heat source, including simple boilers running on coal and wood.

Heated floors work best with gas boilers and heat pumps. In these devices it is even desirable to set the flow temperature to a low level of 30 to 40 °C

However, the temperature of the water supplied to the heated floor should be quite low, a maximum of 55°C. The point is that the floor temperature should not rise too much because it is neither comfortable nor healthy. In the case of gas, oil, electric boilers and heat pumps, setting a low supply temperature is not a problem.

Radiators can work seamlessly with any heat source. Importantly, there's no need to add mixing valves or other complicating elements to the heating system. However, this doesn't mean choosing radiators doesn't require careful consideration, and any radiator will perform equally well regardless of the situation.

Radiators work seamlessly with any boiler. However, they are not recommended for heat pump systems.

In most systems, floor tiles have a high inertia, meaning they heat up and cool down slowly. This is due to the heavy weight of the floor screed—1 m² can weigh up to 200 kg. Therefore, we cannot quickly increase or decrease the heating intensity. It is also difficult to control the room temperature over time, for example, by lowering it at night.

On the other hand, underfloor heating stabilizes the room temperature and is self-regulating—a small increase in room temperature (for example, to 23°C) is enough to significantly reduce the amount of heat emitted by the floor.

Wall-mounted heaters work best with room automation, which measures the temperature inside the home.

In terms of the speed of response to temperature changes, wall-mounted radiators are the opposite of underfloor heating. They heat up and cool down quickly, and the effect is noticeable within ten minutes.

An additional element that improves the precision of heating control is thermostatic heads on radiator valves. This is now a standard solution.

Radiators heat up and cool down in just a few minutes, providing greater control.